10/13/2023 0 Comments Epoxy glow in the dark table![]() ![]() It was cut down on the property I had at the s been moved around to various properties over time and now sits in a large hay shed up in the Perth hills. I also have a beautiful old slab of Black Butt about 3mtrs long and approx 2ft wide and live edges on both sides. ![]() ![]() Living in the aussie bush and many years ago working for the local forestry dept I got some beautiful Jarrah s a stunning red hard wood native to West Aus where i live. The written tutorial was great.really thorough thanku. Have just subscribed to your utube channel □ This is not necessary for this type of wood, but it just made me feel better since the bar top would be outside. I repeated this process for the 2nd flood coat.Īfter the bar top cured for 6 days, I flipped it over and sealed the underside with oil and urethane. Then, I used a brush to chop the material to facilitate proper blending.įinally, my torch removed the air bubbles and help flatten out the material. Next, I used a 1/8" square notch trowel to move the resin across the bar top at a consistent depth. I wiped the edge about once per 5 minutes to prevent dripping.Īfter the first seal coat cured, I sanded the entire table with 320 grit sandpaper and repeated the process for the second and third seal coats.Īfter I sanded the final seal coat, I mixed 3 ounces per square foot for the flood coat. Next, I used my torch to remove air bubbles. The purpose of the seal coat is just as the name implies - it's meant to seal the surface.įirst, my wife spread the material with a squeegee back and forth and let a bead of material drip over the edge. There formula for seal coats is 1 ounce per square foot of surface area. I poke fun at her in the video, so be sure to watch it. So, I took the opportunity to emphasize the importance of this step in the project. :). I asked my wife to help me on the first seal coat and she was nervous to mess up. ![]()
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